- By answering the question, “Why the head doesn't
line up with the bolster plate in its downward most position?”, I’ll also
answer the question of whether the hammer is adjustable to different striking
heights.
In normal operation, the head is swinging
in an 18-inch arc, which is controlled by the eye-to-eye length of the top
link and the spring connecting the head to the hammer frame. Within this
arc is an area where the front edge of the hammer head and the front edge
of the platen are plumb [Fig. 1]. This alignment takes place when the top
link and the springs are both in the horizontal position. This alignment is
only slightly altered when the head is moved from two inches above [Fig. 2]
this horizontal position to two inches below horizontal [Fig. 3]. If all
or most work is done within this four-inch range. You eliminate the likelihood
of a tool getting kicked out by the head moving fore or aft during sticking.Also,
if working in this range of movement, the full six square inch surface area
of the head and bolster are lined up and usable.Remember, when using a treadle
hammer you should never hold a tool with your hand.Always use a pair of tongs,
vise grips, or weld a handle to the tool.
With varying material thickness and different
tool heights, it is necessary to adjust the height of the work in order to
maintain the proper striking height.This is done simply by using different
adjusting blocks set on the bolster plate, or by making your tooling to the
desired height in the first place.If adjusting blocks are made and the tooling
are made correctly, there is no reason to make any adjustments to the hammer
itself.It is easier and faster to make tools to fit the hammer than to keep
adjusting the hammer for each operations.
The first adjusting block that I made [Fig.
4 ]just happens to be the one that usually stays on my hammer when I am not
using any bottom tools.Notice that there are two tubes welded to the front
and two tubes welded to the rear of the block.These tubes have the same spacing
as the tool holder tubes that are on the hammer just behind the bolster plate.These
tubes have the same spacing as the tool holder tubes that are on the hammer
just on behind the bolster plate. With these tubes on the adjusting block
I can use any tool made for the bolster plate on the block.The easiest way
to determine the required thickness of an adjusting block is to place any
tooling and the material to be worked on the bolster [Fig. 5].Then, bring
the head down until the spring and connecting link are in the horizontal
position.Now measure the distance between the face of the hammer head and
the top of the object to be hit.In this example we are using a piece of 1-¼”
bar stock and a 1 inch.fuller.Note the distance between the head and the
top of the fuller is 5 inches. By placing the 4-inch spacer block on the
bolster plate [Fig. 6] you are ready to start to work and you'll still be
within the 4-inch range even after fullering.
The next question: Can you attach tools to
the head? Yes, but why would you want to? Once a tool is mounted to the head
you are stuck to that operation no matter what the material mass, and how
long if will keep its heat. By using hand-held tooling on top, you can work
the metal with different tools until the material needs another heat. However,
there are some instances when it does make sense to keep a single tool mounted
to the top plate. Once, I made a top tool holder for someone who bought one
of my hammers. He was an armorer and needed a ball held on top in order to
make helmets, breast plates and such by sinking into a form held on the bolster.
Although I have never used this tool [Fig. 7], I am including it so that
you will can see how it's done. By sliding the tools over the 1-inch flanges
on the sides of the head you have the flexibility of moving the tool fore
and aft to line it up with the work piece or a corresponding tool on the
bottom. The tool shown in Fig. 7 will hold any of my 1-inch hardy tools
or any tool I make and mount to a 1-inch square shaft.
Another reason for not mounting anything to
the head is that it increases the amount of treadle spring pressure needed
to bring the head back to its up position. I have my spring tension set low
enough that the head will not come up when the head gets below 4 inches above
the platen. By keeping the treadle tension low, you are not exhausted by
the end of the day from operating an exceedingly stiff treadle.
As mentioned in my introduction, people often
ask if it's possible to draw out tapers on the treadle hammer. Again, the
answer is “yes.” Making a spear point or any other fullering operations is
an easy matter. Simply make or use a fuller [Fig. 8] that will move the material
just enough, to get you to where you need to go without getting too aggressive.
When you are just about at the desired amount of draw simply use a round back
flatter [Fig. 9] to smooth out and finish the piece. If the amount of draw
is not too severe, you can actually just turn over the round back flatter,
and use it as a flat back rounder, and use it instead of a fuller.
The only other tool that I think is a must if
you have a Treadle Hammer is the side set [Fig. 10]This is the handiest tool
for isolating an area of material for working and keeping it separate form
the rest of the metal. There are many other tools that are treadle hammer
specific, but they are also project specific. As you use the treadle hammer
you will learn to make more and more tools that will lend themselves to other
projects. After making your own treadle hammer tools for a while, you will
learn to think about possible future uses when designing a specific tool
for the immediate project at hand, but also for any similar jobs that might
come along in the future.
Hopefully, the combination of my original article
and this one will answer your major questions about the treadle hammer. If
not, please get in touch with me. For questions and/or a copy of the original
“Delivering the Perfect Strike” send a SASE to: Jere Kirkpatrick, 280 Franklin
Ave., Willits, CA 95490 Phone (707 ) 459-2523. Web: www.saber.net/~jere.
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the Perfect Strike
